Step by Step on how make Honey Oil using Isopropyl Alcohol
This is design for larger operations but can be used as guild you for smaller projects also.
This is Basic method (cheapest way, it does not recollect the Alcohol) your making Honey oil, and Green oil using all your trimming and smaller buds + Isopropyl Alcohol 99.7 % or more (do not use the 70% Stuff) you need pure as you can get to make sure all is evaporate at the end. Equipment needed: Large batch making
1 - 5 gallon bucket with a drain/spout at bottom (easy drain off the Alcohol off the leaf/bud)
1 – 5 gallon Bucket to collect the run off from the first bucket with leaf and bud in it.
3 – Plastic Storage Box – (18 Gallon give or take)
1- paint mixing tool attached to a drill
1- Hot plate
1- large cooking pot
1 – glass cooking pot
and a lot of rags/shirts/pillow cases (big enough to put over top 5 gallon bucket) for straining
Preparing your bud
Step 1: dry all plant trimming/buds and crush it all with hand down finer pieces and freeze it and freeze the Isopropyl Alcohol (best time make it is in the winter time since great outdoors is one gigantic freezer Just Keep it outside 2 day before starting.
Preparing the buckets and plastic storage boxes
Step 2 : make a spout in one of the 5 gallon bucket (image of a bucket below in photos) and put it higher off the floor eg a chair or anything slightly higher than your buckets that on the floor.
Step 3: Place a second 5 gallon on the floor place it under the spout of the top bucket. (This bucket will collect all the honey oil off the first run. Place a cloth/shirt/pillow case over the bucket so any plant matter comes out of the spout will collect on the cloth instead going in the bucket.
Step 4: take one of the plastic storage box and turn it into a strainer by drilling small hole in the bottom on one side only using 5/32 drill bit about 7 inch from side to the Center and about 7 inch from bottom to up the side (fill as many holes as you can in that area.
Step 5 put the storage bucket with the holes sideways on top of another storage bucket. This be used after completely the draining to dump all plant matter left in the 5 gallon buck to let it stain more.
Step 6: there will be another storage bucket on standby to dump the plant matter out of the strainer (storage bin with holes) so strainer be ready for next wave.
Making first and second wave of honey oil
Step 1: add Isopropyl Alcohol to the 5 gallon bucket with the spout (remember to plug spout ahead time so not leak) until about ¾ full
Step 2: have your drill ready with the paint mixer tool attached and you one bucket ready with a pillow case on top with rope ties so not fall in to strain as it is pouring out.
Step 3: start adding plant matter to the buck 4 big double hand full of crushed plant (no stock) and mix with drill for about 1 minutes or less . Completely mix and gets it to rapid mix. You want to get this done fast as possible.
Step 4: Put bucket on the chair or higher elevation and the second bucket (with the cloth on it for straining) under the spout. Release the stopper from the spout and let it pour onto the cloth
Hints: as it pours out little plant matter will come out of spout or might even clog little and slow rate down. You want free the passage because you want the off the plant matter as fast as possible. You can use something push up inside the spout to clear the path if slow down.
Step 5: let it drain and get most off the plan within 2 minutes give or take. Longer it stay on the plant more change the chlorophyll will also come out of the plant and turn you honey to green oil
Hint: we use heavy metal almost size of the diameter of the bucket with handle on it to use it to first pressure on the top the mash to help squeeze even more off the plant faster when get to the end of the timer. But you can find something you think work the same
Step 6: after a minutes or 2 (quicker the better) plug the spout and dump all the plant matter out of the bucket into the storage container with holes in bottom and let remaining drain there for no more than 10 minutes. Then dump the plant matter in the last storage container to free up the strainer for the next wave.
Step 7: put little Isopropyl Alcohol into the bucket with spout and give it quick clean to get any plant matter out (and just dump it into the last storage bin with last straining. now go back to the bucket with cloth over it and dump it back into the bucket with the spout. Refill bucket back to ¾ Isopropyl Alcohol and repeat all the steps 1-6 again.
Step 8: if you more trimming then the 2 repeat cycles. Use a new bucket starting with step 1 (don’t use the one honey oil in it anymore.
Step 9: the last storage container that got plant matter just sitting there, you add little more Isopropyl Alcohol and stir will drill this will end up being green oil (but nothing goes to waste) repeat step 2 – 6 and set it aside as green oil.
Straining your honey oil
Step 1: Now all your plant matter is off the Isopropyl Alcohol you are left with a bucket full of pure honey oil from the first run. And another batch that was being strain from the storage container with the holes in it. We call that second grade (this might have a tint of green but if you didn’t let it sit too long it could pass as honey oil also. If looks clean enough pass as honey you can mix all together with first wave.
Step: 2 you going to take that honey and strain it into another bucket with multi layers of clothes of different thickness. You also can use bubble bags with different micron found here you want keep doing this until all finer plant matter and dirt is gone This stage very important better your straining better end quality. Keep doing over and over and with multi layers of cloth until you determine it clean.
Burning Isopropyl Alcohol off the honey oil
THIS STAGE IS DANGEROUS AND NEED BE DONE IN WELL VENTILATED AREA (DO NOT USE OPEN FLAME)
Step 1: your last strain will end up going into a big pot (do not fill it up to very tope) this you put on a heat plate in well ventilated are, outside ideal. But if you have to do it inside put cloe to window and put a fan over the pot help direct the smell, even then do not breathe the fumes in extremely harmful to the lungs.
Step 2: set to low setting first and gradually up the temps until the Isopropyl Alcohol come to a relaxing movement or very slight bubbling. Monitor it always as the Isopropyl Alcohol burns off it increase in bubbling and need adjust temp down to keep in control your do not need splatter or large heat it damage the oil also.
Step 3: VERY IMPORTANT – once Isopropyl Alcohol is down in the pot say ¼ left and you have more from your production waiting to be burn off you can add it to the pot ONLY when the Isopropyl Alcohol has cool down in the pot (DO NOT ADD WHEN IT HOT VERY DANGEROUS) wait
Step 4: once all it burned off and there just enough left to add to a glass pot again WAIT UNTIL IT COOL DOWN then pour to the glass pot from there you burn the remaining amount off until it pure honey and all Isopropyl Alcohol is gone. At this stage when u think it down other have all type method to make sure all out. One spread out super thin and put in oven. Being thin will help speed up the evaporation. You can test little at this stage also put little on a pin or razor blade put under a lighter as like you heating it up not burning it and if it sparkles mean you still got little in there to evaporate.
Step 5: The same step you do for the green oil also.
All concentrate can be smoke with item found at THE KORE click here
Vials as seen in the photos used for honey oil click here
Everyone has their own way or tricks to get most out there heat press and getting good numbers and quality. Here is a step by step on our technique with all the testing we did to get good flavor to amount ratio using our, 3” x 5” rosin heat press found here: https://thekore.ca/product/rosin-heat-press-cage-kits-3x-5/ and using our 2” x 4” Rosin pre-press mold found here : https://thekore.ca/product/pre-press-rosin-molds-2x-4/ and our 6” x 6” parchment paper found here: https://thekore.ca/product/raw-parchment-6″-x-6″/
Step 1: Heat top and bottom plates up to 87c / 190f
Step 2 : Using 6" x 6" Raw Parchment paper, fold 2 sheets on all sides approx. 1/4" (this help in to collected splatter if any)
Step 3: Using your 2" x 4" pre-press mold add 5 grams dried product and with your body weight push down to squeeze to a rectangle piece, then remove
Step 4" take 6' x 6" parchment paper for bottom add 1 sheet for the top then folded one (in step 2) place on top. Then add your product that was pressed and put in center of paper then add folded sheet (in step 2) on top and another parchment on top of that. Rosin will collect on all 4 sheets, some on back as well.
Step 5: Place all under the center of plates (the folded parchment will help you grip the paper and see where center is as u pushing it in.
Step 6: with hand pump press, pump up slowly as it climb to 3 tons, slow will help it spread out under paper better. Once at 3 tons wait until u see little rosin coming out from plate and start timer/stopwatch.
Step 7: Keep pressure at 3 tons for 30 seconds, then slowly pump to 5 to 5.5 tons for 70 seconds (one minute in total) then release pressure
Step 8: Remove from plates and take off all parchment papers with Rosin and set aside,
Step 9 : Take the pressed product while still hot and fold it twice and place under the press with one parchment paper on bottom and on top only.
Step 10: repeats step 6 and 7 (don’t need wait until rosin come out the plates just start timer)
Step 11: wait until all rosin on paper is cooled down and then collect it off paper also check bottom
Step 12: smoke the greatest product in the industry.
Trick and tips
1) When doing more one run clean plates as you go. with a putty knife and folded paper towel wipe plates off when still hot in between every few presses, as you make your product will get residue on the plates but easy to wipe off as you working. Also last clean before shut down do same thing clean plate when hot. Then turn off.
2) When press in your 2" x 4" pre-press mold some product very sticky if doing alot at one time product may stick. to prevent this cut piece raw parchment paper place at bottom and put on top the product as you press, no more stick and also you don’t need clean as often
3) You can find your own sweet spot in temp and time and pressure under the press from 170f / 76c - 240f /115c but after many test our sweet spot is 190c / 87c to give great flavor and decent amount. Just remember higher the temp you may get more but you will lose the flavor/taste to get it. And taste is just as important when dabbing.
4) when place the parchment under the plates with your product use one hand grab bottom folder paper and another on top fold paper, this way you can see your product as you push it to where should be under the plate. With proper lighting you can see the plate threw the parchment paper to help you nowhere it is sitting.
5) depend on your species some give more ,some give less so pick your best species there alot out there give nice amounts so your percentage go up.
6) some species may be little hard get all off paper trick 1) wait a day let sit overnight then collect or 2) scrap what you can then leave remaining overnight rest what left be easier and come off or 3) put in freezer for couple seconds to harden more then scrape. We usually let sit overnight. Some species just mean for perfection making rosin and dream comes off paper almost like shatter.
7) Only use Raw parchment paper, it tougher and got extra natural coating to help under pressure and scrapping product off. Do not use crappy grocery store stuff.
😎 no matter what you will always get residue on the heat plates as you are making, wipe with folded paper towel using a putty knife when plate are hot.
9) as you press and if you see you product coming out of the plate mean it wasn’t centered, 5 grams is the sweet spot for 3 x 5
10) if parchment paper is breaking under pressure 100% chance you got too much stem in your product, all stem should be removed and use bud only for best production (no leaf) stem is your worst enemy.
11) Always use the 4 raw papers as we mention in the steps during first press so you not lose any rosin it will collect on all sheets.
12) Rosin making is only as good as your species less quality product won’t get u much but good quality you be amazed what some species collect. So if you not getting hardly anything it your species get a better species for rosin making.
First step is to buy these quality Bubble Hash Bags
– This 5 Gallon All Mesh 5 Piece Kit is what you need
After these steps you can enjoy your "Glandular Trichome Hashish" as is, or take it to the next level and make "Live Rosin"
Follow these instructions for making hashish and to get the longest life out of your bags:
1. Get (2) 5 gallon buckets.
2. In one bucket: place the Purple = 25 Micron, Yellow = 73 Micron, green = 120 Micron, Red = 160 Micron, and last Blue = 220 Micron. The 25 Micron is the last one in the bucket and the first one out (It will contain all your pulp when finished). The finer screens that will collect the ice hash, place them in sequence so the fine filter (220M) will be the last one out of the bucket.
3. In the other bucket: fill with cold water the amount it would take to cover just the bottom of the bubble bags in the other bucket. Then put in your frozen plant trimmings. Fill the rest of the space (almost to top) with ice.
4. Stir and churn the the ice and plant trimmings for 15-20 minutes and let it sit for another 30min.
5. Slowly pour the product into the other bucket with the bubble bags. you can go ahead and pull the first bag out (this is your pulp and can be put threw steps 1-5 again for another wash).
6. The rest of the bags will contain all the extract you want to collect (of course the 220M will contain the best quality extract).
7. Remove ALL the moisture with the pressing screen and a tea towel. You may even want to spread it out to air dry before pressing into blocks.
8. You can enjoy your fresh Hashish now, or take it to the next step by using a hydraulic rosin press with the hash you made for the the purest quality Glandular Trichome Rosin.
9. Wash your bags with cold water, do not use alcohols or other harsh chemicals!
Hey there everyone! I thought I'd get this section started with a fairly easy recipe I came up with a few years ago. I'm sure others have thought of it too, but for those of who haven't, let's get started.
I've always have had a few issues with butter infused with herb the traditional ways. I've tried various recipes, and all seemed to come out similar in taste, with a lot of labour needed.
So, I sought after an easier way to make edibles without noticing much of that well known after taste.. and thought about making some edibles infused with already made honey oil I had on hand... and it turns out it was fairly easy, and quick. It takes me roughly 30 minutes to 1 hour to make one full batch of infused cooking oil.
The ingredients list is fairly short, as well. What you'll need is:
Honey Oil (Suggested 5g for every 3 cups of coconut oil used)
Stovetop Safe Cookware
First step is put the amount of coconut oil you'd like to use in a stovetop safe glass cup, or bowl. I personally use a bowl, as I make larger batches. Cups will work for small batches.
After you do this, you can throw it on the stove and put your burner to the lowest setting. I've only used this method with electric stove tops, so some testing may be needed for other types.
Wait for the coconut oil to turn into a liquid, which should happen fairly quickly. After this happens, put your honey oil into the container and start mixing. It will start by looking like blobs that will not stick with the coconut oil, because of the density difference. Though as the heat starts to melt the honey oil down, it will start to infuse with the coconut oil.
Once you have a consistent texture between the oils you may take it off the stove top, let it cool to room temperature (while mixing it every once and awhile). Once it's at room temperature, you can throw it in your fridge.
In a few hours you can take a look at it and see it will turn into the same texture as the coconut oil originally was, but now more green.
That's it! Now you have some POTENT infused coconut oil that you can use to make all your edibles with. Just use the same amount of oil it calls for in the recipe you are using. If the recipe does not call for oil, that doesn't mean you can't throw some in!
I hope this helps some people make delicious edibles, that they've always wanted while staying high in potency.